Is Hyaluronic Acid Good for Dry Skin?
Hyaluronic acid gets a lot of hype. It’s famous for holding 1,000 times its weight in water and likely already in your routine. But is hyaluronic acid good for dry skin?
“In skincare, hyaluronic acid has the ability to attract and hold large amounts of moisture, making it a popular ingredient for hydration,” says Y. Claire Chang, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York. That’s why you’ll find it in everything from lightweight toners to hydrating serums and moisturizers.
We’re big fans, too; our moisture-locking face stick is infused with biotech-derived hyaluronic acid, and our skin-strengthening serum contains a next-gen form of the ingredient called Hymagic 4D. A combination of four kinds of hyaluronic acid—all with different properties—this skincare product creates a three-dimensional network that replenishes water from the surface of your skin and holds water from within.
So what’s the drawback? For dry skin, this hero ingredient may come with certain caveats. But don’t worry: Even if you have dry or dehydrated skin, you can definitely still incorporate it into your skincare routine. Below, dermatologists explain how hyaluronic acid works and how to make sure you’re getting the most out of this hydrating ingredient, no matter your skin type.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Not only is hyaluronic acid floating in your favorite glow-boosting serum, but it’s also present in your joints. “Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the body,” says Marisa Garshick, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell - New York Presbyterian Medical Center.
As a naturally occurring sugar, or glycosaminoglycan, it can be found throughout your body’s connective tissue, says Dr. Chang. “It plays a crucial role in retaining moisture, providing lubrication, and supporting the structure of tissues and organs, including the eyes, joints, and skin,” she explains. “In the skin, hyaluronic acid helps maintain skin’s moisture, plumpness, and firmness.”
As a skincare ingredient, hyaluronic acid falls under the category of humectants. That means it “attracts and holds onto water, making it a key ingredient in products aimed at hydrating and plumping,” says Dr. Garshick.
What are the pros and cons of hyaluronic acid for skin?As an active ingredient, hyaluronic acid has a lot of things going for it, and it’s easy to see why so many products feature its moisture-attracting properties. Dr. Garshick loves the ingredient because it’s “highly effective at providing intense hydration to the skin due to its ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.” This makes it a top pick for “plumping the skin, smoothing fine lines, and enhancing overall skin texture,” she says.
She also points out the “non-irritating nature” of the ingredient, which makes it safe to use on all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Dr. Chang recommends skincare with hyaluronic acid because of the finish it leaves behind: “glowier, dewy, with less visible fine lines and wrinkles.” The effects are temporary and will wear off once the hydration does, but the more moisturized your skin is, the smoother and firmer it will look.
On the flip side, the way hyaluronic acid functions as an ingredient means it can sometimes draw water molecules out of your skin instead of from your surroundings, which poses a challenge when you already have dry skin. “One potential downside of hyaluronic acid is its environmental dependence,” says Dr. Garshick.
“In very dry climates, it may draw moisture from deeper layers of the skin instead of the air, potentially leading to increased dryness.” Dr. Chang explains that this happens because “the moisture drawn to hyaluronic acid has to come from somewhere, but if the air around you has very low humidity or your skin is dry to begin with, it’s not going to be effective.”
One other minor drawback you may encounter when using hyaluronic acid skincare is the “short-term hydration” the ingredient provides when used alone. “It needs to be reapplied frequently to maintain hydration,” says Dr. Chang.
Before you write it off, know that there’s a single fix for both downsides. “To mitigate this, it should be used in conjunction with a moisturizer to lock in hydration,” says Dr. Garshick. Dr. Chang adds that she always recommends “using it in combination with emollients that help repair the skin (like ceramides), as well as occlusive ingredients that will lock in the moisture, for a more long-lasting effect.”
Is hyaluronic acid good for dry skin?
In a word: Yes. That said, you need to use it correctly to support your skin health, which means pairing it with other ingredients, especially if you have dry skin.
“I never recommend using hyaluronic acid alone, but in combination with emollients that repair the skin and occlusive ingredients that will lock in the moisture,” stresses Dr. Chang. “Hyaluronic acid by itself is not a miracle worker; it needs the right environment to work.” While you can’t always transform your environment if you live somewhere arid and dry, she suggests staying hydrated and using a humidifier in conjunction with your serums and moisturizers.
The way you apply your skincare also matters. “It’s essential to apply hyaluronic acid products on damp skin and follow up with a moisturizer to seal in the hydration,” says Dr. Garshick. This will ensure you get all of the benefits to your skin barrier and elasticity without the side effects.
Follow these tips, and hyaluronic acid can do a lot for your skin. Both Dr. Garshick and Dr. Chang say it’s a great ingredient for all skin types, including dry, oily, combination, and sensitive skin.
“Because it’s non-comedogenic, it can be used safely in oily or acne-prone skin types,” adds Dr. Chang. “It’s typically gentle and soothing, making it great for those with sensitive skin. For those with dry skin, it can provide hydration by drawing moisture into the skin if used correctly.”
What are the best ingredients to pair with hyaluronic acid?
So, you want to use hyaluronic acid without the risk of drying out. Fun fact: Our moisture-locking face stick does the work for you by combining hyaluronic acid with emollients and occlusives: squalane and ceramide NP. If you’re curious about other ways to mix and match your skincare, stick to the expert-approved list below.
Glycerin
Glycerin is “another humectant that draws moisture into the skin and is less dependent on environmental humidity,” explains Dr. Garshick. You can use it in combination with hyaluronic acid, but we’d still recommend adding another emollient or occlusive to the list.
Aloe Vera
This plant extract does more than just help treat sunburns. “Known for its soothing and hydrating properties, it’s excellent for calming irritated or dry skin,” says Dr. Garshick. Paired with hyaluronic acid, it helps feed your skin even more moisture. However, since it’s not an emollient or occlusive, we still recommend sealing it in with a moisturizer on top.
Squalane
Dr. Garshick loves this moisturizing ingredient “that mimics the skin’s natural oils, providing hydration without feeling heavy or greasy.” It’s classified as an emollient, which Dr. Chang says “help soften, smooth, and repair the skin and are a great addition to humectants [like hyaluronic acid].” Because it’s so lightweight, even oily and acne-prone skin types can comfortably use squalane.
Shea Butter
Shea butter is both an emollient and an occlusive, so it can simultaneously smooth your skin and trap humectants, locking in moisture. Dr. Chang also recommends pairing shea butter with hyaluronic acid. While it’s a thicker ingredient, it’s actually non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t clog your pores.
Ceramides
Ceramides are one of the most popular emollients for dry, dehydrated, and sensitive skin. They “help to restore and maintain the skin’s natural barrier, preventing moisture loss,” says Dr. Garshick.
The takeaway: It’s always a good time to sprinkle some hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine. Just remember to apply responsibly, whether that means choosing a product that combines it with occlusives or making your own moisture sandwich. As long as you do that, you’re all set for hydrated skin.
Meet the Experts
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Marisa Garshick, M.D., F.A.A.D. is a leading board-certified dermatologist serving patients throughout Manhattan, New York at MDCS Dermatology: Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery, as well as an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell - New York Presbyterian Medical Center. Dr. Garshick provides a wide variety of cosmetic and medical procedures and services including treatments for acne, eczema, hyperhidrosis, moles, psoriasis, rosacea, signs of aging, skin cancer, skin tags, vitiligo, and wrinkles.
- Y Claire Chang, M.D. is a board-certified and fellowship-trained cosmetic dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York. She specializes in cutaneous laser treatments, facial and body contouring, and injectable treatments. Dr. Chang is an expert in skin of color and Asian beauty trends, and she frequently travels back and forth from Asia to bring the latest cosmetic trends to her patients. She has published numerous articles in peer-reviewed journals, written multiple dermatology book chapters, and presented her research at several national dermatology meetings. She is a member of the American Academy of Dermatology, American Society of Dermatologic Surgery, American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, and the Women’s Dermatologic Society. She also serves as a clinical instructor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai Medical Center.
Sources:
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging | PMC
Dry skin in dermatology: a complex physiopathology | NCBI