If you thought you left acne in high school…same here. Unfortunately, acne is one of those things that can happen at any point, even into your 40s. Irritating, painful, and beyond frustrating, acne affects about 9.4% of the population; all this to say if you’re struggling with acne, you’re far from alone.

That’s where salicylic acid comes in. It might be a mouthful, but salicylic acid has been used to treat a variety of skin issues for over 2,000 years. As far back as the first century AD, Roman scholar and naturalist Pliny the Elder used salicylic acid sourced from willow bark as a remedy for calluses and corns. Fast forward to the 1860s, salicylic acid was discovered to soften and exfoliate the skin (don’t worry, we know you’re not here for a history lesson). 

Today, salicylic acid is commonly found in products that can help manage — you guessed it —  breakouts. What makes salicylic acid such a hot ingredient? Let's break it down and take a closer look.

 

What is salicylic acid?

 

Salicylic acid falls under the category of beta hydroxy acids (BHA), which are chemical exfoliators. It can be sourced from white willow bark (as Pliny knew) and wintergreen leaves, or formulated in a lab. 

Salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliator of many talents. It has cleansing, soothing, and desmolytic properties which all play a part in making it a choice breakout-fighting ingredient.

 

What are the benefits of salicylic acid?

To understand how salicylic acid works, we first need to talk about the root cause of acne and breakouts. When your pores become blocked by dead skin cells and sebum (your skin’s natural oil), blackheads, whiteheads, or blemishes may appear. 

Blackheads are open clogged pores, while whiteheads are closed clogged pores. Pimples are considered to be pustules, which pop up when your hair follicles aka pores, become inflamed or infected with pus at the top. All very, very fun.

Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble BHA, allowing it to deeply penetrate pores, clearing congestion, and breaking up dead skin cells. It’s this ability that makes salicylic acid so efficacious at tackling whiteheads and blackheads.

Remember those desmolytic properties we talked about? Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin by softening and dissolving intercellular junctions made up of keratin protein which hold skin flakes together. It loosens the buildup of dead skin cells and oil so it's free to fall away and unclog pores as a result.

If you decide to add salicylic acid to your skincare routine, it can help:

• Reduce uneven skin texture and blemishes
• Fade the look of dark spots/pigmentation issues
• Prevent new whiteheads & blackheads from forming
• Decrease redness & swelling

Since salicylic acid can reduce sebum (the oil created by your sebaceous glands) and its production, it can help dry out and manage oily skin types. So if you’re prone to reaching for blotting papers, salicylic acid may help you keep the shine under control.

 

Does salicylic acid have any side effects?

Salicylic acid is a drying ingredient, which makes it great for oily skin and acne-prone skin, but can lead to irritation, peeling, or redness. Using it in conjunction with an antiseptic benzoyl peroxide can further aggravate skin, so the two should never be used simultaneously. If you have dry or sensitive skin, we recommend leaving salicylic acid out of your routine entirely.

 

What products can I find salicylic acid In?

We’d like to give a big shoutout to science for giving us endless solutions to a persistent problem. You’ll find no shortage of over-the-counter (OTC) products with salicylic acid. Usually, you’ll find it in 2% concentrations, though some products may contain as low as 0.5%. If you’re new to salicylic acid, starting with a lower concentration and working your way up is never a bad idea.

Depending on your personal need (and preference) salicylic acid can be found in products like cleansers, serums, gels, wipes, and body washes. If you’re struggling with acne on your chest, back, or shoulders, a body wash is a great choice to keep in your shower. Gels can be great for spot treatment, while wipes are convenient in a pinch or on-the-go. For an all-day solution that keeps your fingers off your spots, try a pimple patch with salicylic acid. 

 

How should I intro salicylic acid into my routine?

 

As we suggested above, start with a lower concentration of salicylic acid and make sure to patch test. Begin by adding a salicylic acid product just 1-2 days a week before increasing frequency, to help your skin build a tolerance and adjust to the active. When in doubt, be cautious of your application — overusing salicylic acid can strip your skin and damage your barrier.

If you’re using a cleanser with salicylic acid, wash for 10-20 seconds before you rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry. For serums, creams, or gels, apply after a gentle cleanser. Salicylic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so we suggest using this active in your PM routine. But we know you’re using SPF anyway — right? Right.

 

Will salicylic acid cause purging?

 

Skin purging is a temporary reaction that shows up as a worsening of acne, with increased dryness, peeling, and breakouts. Because products like salicylic acid turnover dead skin cells at a faster rate, it forces buildup to the surface, unveiling more acne in its initial days or weeks.

 

When will I see results from salicylic acid?

 

Haven’t you heard? Patience is a virtue — and that definitely applies to skincare products. Even if you do not experience purging, it can take 4 to 6 weeks to see any changes when adding salicylic acid to your product mix.

 

Are there any other ingredients I should not mix with salicylic acid?

 

We love salicylic acid because it can be so effective, but its properties also make it incompatible with other popular  active ingredients, like retinol and glycolic acid. Retinol is used in anti-aging products, as well as for acne and scarring. In its process, it disrupts the skin’s barriers, which can lead to dryness and irritation just like salicylic acid. 

Similarly, glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), exfoliates skin, reduces irritation, helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, and can help manage acne. Great on its own, it’s best to use any AHAs and BHAs separately to not overdo the exfoliation, as this can cause skin irritation.

Other chemical exfoliators to look out for in ingredient lists are lactic acid, citric acid, hydroxycaproic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid. Salicylic acid can also be listed as salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract–the more you know, the better you can take care of your skin.

 

Can I use glycolic acid instead of salicylic acid?

 

That really depends on your skin type and goal. Glycolic acid does help shed dead skin cells much like salicylic acid, but also helps your skin retain moisture. Since glycolic acid is an AHA versus a BHA, it is water-soluble, and cannot penetrate as deeply as salicylic acid. Unlike salicylic acid, glycolic acid does not help control sebum production and doesn’t have a comedolytic effect, meaning preventing the future formation of comedones (clogged pores). 

Glycolic acid can help give you a brighter and more even skin tone, reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, and may help protect against UV damage. It’s a powerful ingredient, but if you’re specifically looking to handle oil production and acne, go for salicylic acid.

 

What skincare ingredients play well with salicylic acid?

 

Looking to build on your routine? Here are some ingredients you may want to add:

• Niacinamide: This B3 vitamin has antioxidant properties that can help fade pigmentation concerns, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, calm redness, and may help minimize pore size. Niacinamide is also a hydrating ingredient, making it a great pairing for the drying salicylic acid.

• Vitamin C: Another antioxidant addition, vitamin C can help support skin health during exposure to  free radicals from environmental pollutants, tackle signs of aging, and minimize the look of dark spots. While it has similar benefits to niacinamide, vitamin C can hold a more brightening effect.

• Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is naturally produced by your body, but when this molecule is used in skincare, it is great at helping your skin retain moisture. Generally safe for most skin types, it’s a winner in our books.

Let’s wrap things up

 

Salicylic acid could be the game-changing ingredient you’re looking for to manage breakouts, whiteheads, and blackheads. This oil-soluble chemical exfoliant deeply decongests pores, and sloughs off dead skin cells, and reduces sebum production. As a soothing ingredient, It’s particularly effective in managing breakouts because it helps prevent new whiteheads and blackheads from forming.

There’s so much to love about this active, but as with any new ingredient, it’s important to start slow. Avoid mixing salicylic acid with other AHAs, BHAs, and retinol to prevent over-exfoliation and skin barrier damage. 

You can find salicylic acid in a variety of over-the-counter skin care, from serums to body wash. Start your journey with a lower concentration (0.5%) and work your way up to 2%. Remember, results take time. Your skin may go through a purging period, but even still it could be 4-6 weeks before you experience any visible changes. After all, good things take time.

Hopefully, you leave this page feeling better equipped with your new knowledge of salicylic acid. Now go forth, and unclog your pores!

 

Sources:

Salicylic Acid Topical | MedlinePlus Drug Information

Acne Vulgaris | NCBI

The Truth About Skin Purging: Understanding and Managing the Process Safely | Scar Healing Institute

A New Look At Skin Cell Turnover | Society of Cosmetic Scientists