Your Complete Guide to Double Cleansing
Cleansing isn’t new — far from it. Back in the day (way back) humans would use a piece of bone or stone to scrape and cleanse the skin. This would later progress to include water and plant-based materials for cleansing.
Fast forward just a couple of thousand years and we find ourselves equipped with what feels like endless ways to care for our skin. One year it’s reusable eye patches, next it’s LED Light Therapy.
For now, we’re turning our attention to another innovative philosophy that’s captured the attention of skincare lovers everywhere: Korean Beauty, or K-Beauty. This multi-step skincare routine is built with gentle ingredients and focused on prevention vs. treatment. Its popularity has given rise to a new way of washing your face: double cleansing.
More than just an extra step, double cleansing can be a gentle yet effective addition to removing sunscreen, makeup, and other impurities.
On the fence about starting something new, or wondering if it’s worth the effort? We get it, so we’re unpacking the details of double cleansing.
What is double cleansing?
Double cleansing is exactly what it sounds like — washing your face twice, first with an oil-based cleanser, and then following up with a water-based cleanser.
But let's back up a bit — why do we even need a facial cleanser in the first place? Products like makeup and sunscreen are fat-soluble, so water alone can’t get rid of the residue. Cleansers emulsify these fat-soluble impurities, like makeup, into finer particles, making them water-soluble. They also work to reduce surface tension on the skin, so you can wash the day away.
The idea behind the double cleansing method is that the oil-based cleanser, like a cleansing oil or cleansing balm, first breaks down products like waterproof makeup, sunscreen, and sebum (the oil your skin produces). Due to their similarity in molecular structure, it’s easier for oil cleansers to break down oil-based elements. As the second step, a water-based cleanser then takes on water-soluble impurities like dirt and sweat. This step can help make your next steps more effective, allowing products like serums or moisturizers to better penetrate your skin.
Oil-based cleansers were found to be more effective at maintaining skin oil content and acidity, while water-based cleansers appear to be more moisturizing. Who says oil and water don’t mix? That’s definitely not the case for this complementary duo.
How do I get started with double cleansing?
Just as with any skincare addition, finding the right products for your skin type is key to building a successful routine.
Oily skin
Oil cleansers can be especially useful in removing excess sebum, which clogs pores and can lead to breakouts. You’ll want to include a foaming cleanser with ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. These actives dig deep into the pores and help remove sebum and other excess oils that can trigger breakouts.
Acne-prone skin
As a general rule of thumb, if your skin is acne-prone, you’ll always want a non-comedogenic, or not pore-clogging, product that won’t contribute to blackheads and blemishes. Go for soothing ingredients like vitamin E, and like oily skin, salicylic acid.
Dry skin or sensitive skin
Fragrances are not your friend if you have dry or sensitive skin. Opt for a creamy or gel-based face cleanser over a foaming cleanser. Look for ingredients that are humectants like hyaluronic acid, which pulls moisture from the air to help hydrate your skin. Ingredients with a neutral pH, like jojoba oil, can help protect your skin’s moisture levels.
Combination skin or normal skin
The cleansing world is your oyster! Reach for a foaming formula, and make sure to select something gentle enough for daily use. After all, the goal of double cleansing is to improve skin health, not overdo it leading to a compromised skin barrier,
Our purifying whipped cleanser is a water-based cleanser gentle enough for all skin types — it’s even received the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance™. This pH-friendly formula, soft as a cloud on your skin, washes away impurities and dirt while maintaining your skin barrier.
Made with fermented vegetable-based glycolipids, it gently cleanses while supporting the microbiome. Your skin’s average pH level is around 5, so look for formulas with a similar pH to help support its natural microenvironment.
Is it safe to use cleansers with different actives?
The right active ingredient can make or break a product’s success for your skin. Mixing certain actives has the potential to irritate and damage your skin barrier. Let’s break down the interactions most common ones found in oil-based and water-based cleansers to help you curate the perfect double cleansing routine.
Salicylic acid
A beta hydroxy acid (BHA), this chemical exfoliant helps dissolve dead skin cells and can be effective for acne-prone skin. Avoid pairing salicylic acid with retinol or benzoyl peroxide. While each product is great for deep cleansing on its own, using them together can be extremely drying for your skin.
Hyaluronic acid
Great for attracting and retaining moisture, hyaluronic acid gets along with most ingredients found in skincare products. It can be especially beneficial if you’re using something more drying, like a product with salicylic acid.
Benzoyl peroxide
Known for its ability to kill bacteria, benzoyl peroxide is often found in acne-treating products. Since benzoyl peroxide can also be quite drying, don’t pair it with salicylic acid, retinol, or products with alcohol like shaving creams.
Vitamin E
An antioxidant, vitamin E can help with skin moisture and protect your skin from free-radical damage caused by UV rays. Just like hyaluronic acid, this vitamin plays well with others, especially Vitamin C.
Vitamin C
Another antioxidant, vitamin C can help reduce the appearance of aging, dark spots, and acne. Vitamin E helps stabilize the ingredient, allowing your skin to reap more benefits of vitamin C.
Stay away from using Vitamin C and retinol in the same routine because they can lower each other’s efficacy. Instead, you can include vitamin C in the AM and retinol in the PM.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, may also act as an antioxidant, can improve skin barrier function, and can help brighten your complexion. Niacinamide is considered to be a rather safe, non-irritating ingredient, and can work well with humectants like hyaluronic acid and even salicylic acid. Press the breaks on other chemical exfoliants, and of course, retinol.
When in doubt, talk to a medical professional to establish the best combination of actives for your skin type.
When should I double cleanse?
If you’re down to double cleanse, make it the first step of your evening routine. This gives the cleansers a chance to do their work, washing off any makeup, sunscreen, and pollutants you may face during the day. The water-based cleanser can help create a better environment for your evening products to absorb into your skin as you sleep.
Just a dime-sized amount of product should do; rinse with lukewarm water and pat your skin dry with a clean towel.
Good Things Come in Twos
At least when it comes to double cleansing. This two-step technique can take your standard face washing to the next level, better breaking down heavier products like sunscreen or heavy makeup, and allowing the water-based cleanser to sweep away dirt and sweat. This system may also allow your other products to absorb and perform better — what’s not to love?
When selecting your cleansers, make sure to take note of the best formulas and ingredients for your skin type. What works well for your dry-skin BFF may not be the solution for your combination skin. Make the most out of your routine (and budget) by checking the safety and efficacy of various actives when paired together.
K-beauty is all about nurturing and nourishing your skin for long-term benefits. It’s clear to see how double cleansing fits into this philosophy and focus on hydration. Double cleansing can be a simple and effective way to elevate your skincare, and make an everyday necessity feel a little more luxurious.
Sources:
Double Cleansing Method Explained: Should You Try It? | Cleveland Clinic
Salicylic Acid (Topical Route) Description and Brand Names | Mayo Clinic
Understanding and treating various skin types: the Baumann Skin Type Indicator | NCBI
